Colți – Aluniș – Nucu Cave Settlements
✨ Short description
The cave churches & settlements of Buzău are some of the oldest and most spiritual places in Romania. In this land, carved into the rock for thousands of years, history, legends and faith are intertwined. The area, often referred to as “Luana’s Land”, was used by the Geto-Dacians, early Christians and Sikh monks, who excavated cave churches and hermitages that still retain the mystery and energy of the past. Visitors can explore both impressive cave landscapes and rock-hewn churches that continue to attract not only believers but also lovers of culture, history and adventure.
There are two possible access points: Alunis and Nucu. Alunis offers the “easy version” with access right next to the parking lot of 2 rock churches. From both access points hikes can start (between 2 and 8 hours) and a local guide is recommended if you want to discover the area in detail. Click on the links below to find details for all the cave churches.
📜 History of the location
The area has been used since ancient times. The cave settlements have served as centers of worship, monastic refuges and places of spiritual retreat, becoming true monuments of faith. They illustrate a unique continuity of habitation and worship, and the inscriptions and symbols carved into the rock bear witness to centuries-old traditions.
In the north of Buzău county there are over 25-30 rock-hewn cave settlements, originally used as prehistoric dwellings, then as hermitages and dormitories for Sikh monks. Archaeological research shows settle settlements as far back as the Bronze Age (Monteoru culture) and the Early Iron Age (Hallstatt). Some caves seem to have been pre-Geto-Dacian ritual sites, later transformed by the first Christian missionaries (said to have arrived around 300 AD) into ascetic shelters. The area thus became, together with Dobrogea, an important cradle of early Christianity in Romania.
In the Middle Ages, especially from the 14th-16th centuries, with the isihast wave (the retreat of the monks into solitude), these caves were reborn as hermitages and cave churches. Some, such as the Aluniș hermitage (mentioned in 1578), appear in documents, and royal donations show that they were known and active. But many hermitages suffered during the Russo-Austro-Turkish wars (1735-1739), when they were deserted or abandoned. Even so, some caves remained temporary refuges or isolated dwellings until late in the 19th century.
At the end of the 19th century, the remains came to the attention of scholars: in 1871, the historian Alexandru Odobescu organized an archaeological expedition and the painter Henric Trenk made the first sketches of the sites. Since then, research has been sporadic and the mystery of the exact origin of many of the caves persists. Today, the cave settlements of the Luana Land (the area’s legendary name) are included on the List of Historical Monuments. Some – such as the cave church in Aluniș – are still occasionally used for religious services.
⭐ Importance and uniqueness of the location
The Luana region (Aluniș-Nucu-Bozioru) is the richest area in the country in terms of rock paintings and ancestral symbols. Early Christian signs (Maltese crosses, Cyrillic inscriptions, the ichtys symbol) can be found on the cave walls, along with unidentified pre-Christian symbols, evidence of continuous spiritual use. Some historians believe that, after Dobrogea, it was the most important hermitage in the Romanian area, contributing to the spread of early Christianity.
In addition to their religious value, the rock settlements are also impressive from a geological point of view: they are dug into sandstones and conglomerates eroded into spectacular shapes, with rocky spurs and outstanding views. Some, such as Joseph’s Church, are perched on steep cliffs and offer stunning views. The whole area is characterized by wild landscapes with hidden glades, karst lakes, trovants and ‘living fires’ (spontaneously burning natural gas).
Although little known for a long time, Buzău’s cave settlements are now attracting more and more visitors with a passion for adventure, culture and spirituality. They are included in the UNESCO Geopark “Ținutul Buzăului” (opened in 2022) and offer an authentic experience. The local legends, the absence of clear dating and the still underdeveloped character add to the charm of the area, turning it into a true living museum of spirituality and the distant past.
🐉 Local myths and stories
The cave settlements of Buzău are popularly known as “Luana’s Land”, a toponym linked to two main legends charged with mystery:
- The Legend of King Luana describes a mythical land inhabited by giants and ruled by a wise king, despite the female name. He had a fortress with walls so high they touched the sky, lit day and night by an uninterrupted ‘sun’. The locals were cured with living and dead waters from the Valley of the Springs, until enemies attacked from the sky with ‘chariots of fire’ and destroyed the fortress.
- The legend of the girl in the chariot of fire depicts Luana as a young girl who came in a flying object, able to heal the wounded with healing waters. In this version too, a destructive battle scorched the land and the wounded girl retreated into a cave, disappearing into the heart of the mountain.
These stories, although unscientific, lend a fantastic air to the region, recalling giants, the ‘eternal sun’, fire and healing waters. Local legends also include episodes about cave churches: it is said that the church of Aluniș was dug by two shepherds at the behest of the gods, or that the boyar Cristea built a huge cross on the peak of the Crucea Spătarului, fleeing from the Ottoman invaders. There is also talk of treasures hidden under Mount Țurțudui or of saints (such as St. Theodora of Sihla) who took refuge in caves.
Locals refer to the area as “God’s Gate”, ascribing mysterious energies to it. Although these claims are not scientifically confirmed, they add to the charm of the Luana Land, weaving history with myth and turning a simple hike into a journey into a land of legend.
Each cave church has its own stories. The most famous is that of the Aluniș church, said to have been carved into the rock by two shepherds at the behest of the divine. Another legend tells of the back-shepherd Cristea, a refugee in the Nucu Mountains in the 19th century, who is said to have erected a huge cross on the mountain peak in thanksgiving to God. There is also talk of a treasure hidden by this backrest under the summit of Țurțudui, but it has never been found. Such legends fuel the curiosity of adventurers who travel the trails in search of relics.
🗺️ What to visit
The area includes many places of interest: cave trails, rock-hewn churches and monastic hermitages, which together create a circuit of history, spirituality and mystery. Visitors can explore the marked trails on their own or opt for guided tours that reveal the secrets of these ancient monuments.
The Buzău cave settlement area is divided into two main areas:
- The Aluniș cave complex (Colți commune)– the most accessible site, with its 700-year-old cave church (dedicated to the cutting of the head of St. John the Baptist) and three rock-hewn huts. The church is still functional, with the altar and nave carved in stone. There is a small old cemetery nearby, and traces of chimney stacks and carved steps can be seen in the cellars.
- The Nucu – Poiana Cozanei – Agaton (Ivănețu Mountains, Bozioru commune)– a ~7 km (4-5 hours) circuit connecting several caves and hermitages:
- The Chilia of Dionysius the Torchmaker: excavated ~6 m high, with a metal staircase for access; the interior bears traces of soot (former “Cave with the blackness”).
- Joseph’s Church (Cave): the most imposing cave settlement in Nucu, excavated in a massive sandstone block. It has two main rooms and an ancient symbol (the ichtys fish) engraved above the entrance.
- Agatonul Nou hermitage: the ruins of a church and the 16th-century rock-hewn cellars, with traces of the altar, walls and a hidden cellar. The stone dovecotes testify to its existence from the time of Neagoe Basarab.
- Crucea Spătarului: lookout point at ~1050 m altitude, where it is said that the boyar Cristea erected a huge cross in 1821. The view of the peak of Țurțudui and the whole “Land of Luana” is impressive.
- Agatonul Vechi (Dărâmătura): old ruined hermitage, with remains hard to spot. It may have pre-Christian origins, according to some archaeological finds.
- Boar Lake: small permanent waterhole used as a watering place for wild animals.
- Fundătura hermitage: the last stage of the circuit, a cave church carved into a large crag, dedicated to the Transfiguration, dating from the 17th century.
Secondary sights
In the Buzăului Mountains there are isolated sites such as Piatra Îngăurită (Arseniile), with Maltese grottoes and crosses, or Piatra Șoimului and Văgăunile I and II. These are poorly marked and harder to reach, ideal for experienced explorers.
Other attractions in the area
- Zboiu ridge galleries (approx. 4 km from Aluniș): former rock-hewn shelters used for invasions, partly collapsed.
- Rock settlements at Fișici and Năeni (commune of Bozioru), of more modest size.
Most tourists visit the Church of Aluniș and the trail in the Nucu area, the most representative and well-preserved rock settlements in the Luana Country.
📍 How to get there
The area of the cave settlements is located in the sub-Carpathian area of Buzau, on the border between hills and mountains, relatively isolated from the main roads. The main access points are Aluniș village (Colți commune) and Nucu village (Bozioru commune).
How to get to the area
By car
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- Route Buzău – Colți – Aluniș
- From Buzău, follow DN10 (Buzău – Brasov) towards Nehoiu. After approx. 50 km, in the town of Pătârlagele, turn left towards Colți/Aluniș and continue ~14 km to the commune of Colți, then to the village of Aluniș.
- You can park near the cave church (next to the cemetery) or at the village guesthouse.
- From Aluniș/Colți to Nucu
- The distance is ~17 km on an unpaved, narrow, rocky communal road (approx. 1 hour). Recommended: car with higher ground clearance.
- Park in the hamlet of Nucu (there is a small parking lot), then continue on foot towards Poiana Cozanei and the other sights.
- Alternative route through the commune of Bozioru
- DJ203K to Bozioru, then take the communal road to Nucu. Only robust vehicles are recommended, as the road is in poor condition.
- Route Buzău – Colți – Aluniș
By public transportation
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- From the Buzău bus station there are local minibuses to Colți/Aluniș (check the timetable), or to Fișici (Bozioru commune), near Nucu.
- The frequency of trips is low (1-2 per day), you can get off at Pătârlagele or Colți and take a local taxi or arrange transportation to Aluniș/Nucu.
On foot (hiking)
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- There is a marked trail that connects Aluniș to Nucu over the hills (3-4 hours). It is recommended only for experienced hikers, properly equipped and preferably in a group.
🔎Things to keep in mind
- Visiting the rock settlements requires adequate preparation: trekking shoes, comfortable and sturdy clothes, water, snacks and a hiking gear (torch, trekking poles).
- Be aware of unmarked trails, respect historical monuments and the spirit of the place, and consult a local guide if you are not familiar with the area. Also plan your visit during the day for safety and to admire the sculptural details and landscapes.
⏳ Visiting hours and Fees
Access to Luana Country is free and open, but it is recommended to visit during daylight hours (ideally between 08:00 and 18:00 in summer and 08:00 – 16:00 in winter). In certain situations, local guides may charge a modest fee for organized tours, contributing to the maintenance and preservation of the monuments.